24 hour hold, 72 hour efficiency … The promises of certain cosmetic products may seem exaggerated! They are however the result of advanced technologies, proven by reliable tests. Decryption.
Cosmetic products today promise to last all day, not to run and fight perspiration for more than 72 hours. Top Santé takes stock of these promises.
Make-up that lasts from morning to night
A perfect complexion even after sweating, a flawless lipstick at the end of the day, or a mascara that resists a workout, it is now possible. Thanks to a common technology: formulation without water.
• A transfer-free foundation
It is put to the test, between perspiration and sebum! And it must not leave marks on clothes, that the powders mark wrinkles or that it is no longer uniform. It is thanks to the volatile silicones which make it possible to create non-greasy supports that we obtain more resistant and covering formulas. Once evaporated, the polymer gels form like a magnetic mesh that fixes powders and pigments on the skin for a long-lasting hold that does not migrate.
• A mascara that does not run
We know the mascaras waterproof, with infallible hold, but difficult to remove. Today, even the “normal versions” operate from morning to night without overflow. “The powders are increasingly fine, in order to coat the eyelashes without friability, and new polymers make it possible to obtain an ultra-thin film. Thus, the eyelash is curved, almost nourished, ”explains Élisabeth Bouhadana, head of scientific communication at L’Oréal Paris. And the brush is also important for precise application of mascara. “In order to measure its hold, microcameras attached to glasses take photos of the product on the eyelashes and follow its development throughout the day.
We were thus able to measure a 24-hour outfit without any problem, ”comments the scientific manager.
• Lipsticks always present
For a long time, it was necessary to choose between a lipstick that held, but dried the lips, or a comfortable but unstable rouge. It is the rise of liquid reds that has allowed the evolution of lipstick formulas to offer ultra-pigmented and stable products. The pigment concentration is 10 to 15% higher than that of red sticks, and they do not contain waxes. There are therefore mainly synthetic oils, ultra-fine and occlusive, which will fix the pigments and pearl on the lip while maintaining a supple texture. The deposited film is thin, which gives a “materialless” effect and a hold of up to twelve hours, while remaining comfortable.
Our advice
To adopt, if you want an infallible makeup from morning to night. Or if you have an evening where your beauty must remain impeccable. Or if you go to a hot and humid country, and you don’t want to change your makeup habits.
Creams that hydrate longer
More and more moisturizers for the face or for the body claim 48 hours of hydration (at Diadermine, Nuxe or Biotherm for the face). Which may seem strange, because by removing make-up, we necessarily remove the care of the skin. If these products display such information, it is because the efficacy tests (carried out before the product was put on the market) showed a markedly improved hydration rate 48 hours after application.
• Moisturizers, face or body, often contain glycerin. At an optimal rate, between 5 and 15%, this active ingredient has exceptional properties: it brings water to the skin, retains that already present and slows down the insensible water loss (PIE).
• In body care, it is associated with oils and vegetable or synthetic butters.
• For the face, it is combined with two types ofhyaluronic acids : “One of high molecular weight which retains water on the surface, and another, fractionated, which keeps water in the structures of the epidermis and boosts the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the skin. This gives you very good long-acting moisturizers, ”explains Élisabeth Bouhadana.
• Other ingredients also have good results, such asaloe vera or even urea.
• Another factor explaining long-lasting hydration capacities: the evolution of galenics. “Liquid cosmetics, close to plasma, have a stronger affinity with the skin than creams. Penetration is immediate and without occlusive effect. The hydrating effect is 48 to 72 hours! »Continues the specialist.
Our advice
Whenever you need hydration, these treatments are for you. And more, if you have the dry skin, sensitive or very exposed to the elements.
Deodorants effective for several days
When the deodorants without aluminum salts most often display a maximum effectiveness of one day, antiperspirants, they go up to 48 hours! And some products, formulated for excessive sweating, advertise 72 hours of effectiveness … But why are they more efficient?
• It is often a higher quantity of aluminum salts than in basic products which allows greater efficiency and a longer duration.
• Some formulas combine aluminum salts with another ingredient, such as magnesium oxide (from Vichy or L’Oréal Paris), which acts like small sponges.
• Others, essential oils or other anti-bacterial active ingredients (perfume, etc.) to prevent the formation of odors.
• In the most “long-lasting” products, we can find all three types of ingredients, or even microcapsules with a gradual release of perfume, which are activated as the product is produced. transpiration.
Our advice
These products are essential if you are one of the 4 million French people who have a problem of hyperhidrosis (excessive sweating). Otherwise, don’t use them on a regular basis. You can adopt them on an ad hoc basis, for example in the event of a great physical effort or a stressful event that could trigger excessive sweating (meeting, exam …). The rest of the time, it is better to stay on a classic antiperspirant, or a deodorant if you do not sweat a lot.
Our all-terrain selection
1 Flawless complexion
A light and fresh foundation that promises a unified complexion and a “no make up” finish for up to 24 hours thanks to the absence of fatty substances and pigments coated with flexible polymers. Double Wear Nude foundation, Estée Lauder, € 46.50 for 30 ml.
2 Resistant mascara
This lengthening and volumizing mascara lasts 24 hours thanks to the acrylate copolymers which form a film in order to protect the pigments from humidity, water and sebum. Workout 24 hour Mascara, Clinique Fit, € 24 for 6 ml.
3 Deodorant anti-excessive perspiration
An aqueous, alcohol-free formula with aluminum salts, odor-absorbing zinc ricinoleate, absorbent rice starch and antibacterial triethyl citrate. Hydrosis Control anti-perspirant underarm roll-on, Ducray, € 8.90 for 40 ml.
4 Heavy duty red
This very comfortable liquid lipstick is saturated with pigments. It offers optimal coverage and exceptional hold. Lip Paint, L’Oréal Paris, € 9.60 for 8 ml.
5 Anti-drying milk
The combination of glycerin, aloe vera and esters moisturizes the skin and prevents water from evaporating. Moisturizing-soothing aloe vera milk 48 h, Nivea, € 4.15 per 250 ml.
