Micellar water has become essential to cleanse your skin and remove makeup. As fresh as water, it is nonetheless as effective as milk. But it also has flaws.
Micellar water is a source of benefits for the skin because it combines the advantages of a water and an oil. The secret ? These are the micelles, these microscopic spheres, made up of surfactants with two parts, a lipophilic end (which likes fat), another hydrophilic (in affinity with water). In contact with the skin and make-up, the first (lipophilic) grip greasy dirt, like a magnet, and trap them by closing on it, while the part in affinity with water allows the dirt to be carried away with the cotton .
Fast, efficient, micellar water only requires a cotton pad (the softest possible not to rub) to cleanse, refresh, purify, all without rinsing or feeling greasy. In addition, it is easy to use and many brands have developed miniformats that can be taken easily. In short, it is the ideal product after sports to eliminate sweat, on weekends or when traveling. And it is much more ecological (especially with reusable cotton) than wipes.
Micellar water: perfect cleansing of the skin
A good micellar water eliminates make-up and sebum. This thanks to the micelles.
All surfactants (cleaning agents) have a hydrophilic head – which likes to cling to water – and a lipophilic trail (in affinity with fat). Here, the concentration of surfactants is chosen so that they organize themselves into hydrophilic microspheres on the outside, lipophilic on the inside. On cotton, these micelles open. Their heads are attached to cotton soaked in water, and their lipophilic chain traps makeup, impurities linked to air pollution, sebum, sweating, desquamation… like a magnet. However, it cleanses less deeply than an oil or a milk that is massaged and which will seek impurities in the heart of the pores.
Alone waterproof eyeshadows and mascaras resist it.
Micellar water: it does not rinse
No need to rinse it, and therefore reapply over hard water (drying). No need for a tonic either, which is applied after an oil or a cleansing milk. It is also often because it does not rinse that we choose it because it allows makeup removal in a single gesture.
But in reality, beauticians and dermatologists advise rinsing it out in order to eliminate the micelles whose surfactants, by remaining on the skin, can weaken the skin barrier. It can be rinsed with clear water or with a spray of thermal or floral water which is then dabbed.
Micellar water: it pickles a little too much
It’s true. Firstly because it is often necessary to make several passes with the cotton, which induces repeated rubbing. In addition, it tends to eliminate part of the hydrolipidic film and to dry out the skin a little. Suddenly, after use, it pulls!
Pay particular attention to the presence of sulphated surfactants (sodium, ammonium lauryl, laureth sulfate) or ethoxylated PEG type. We now say that it is rather the ally of combination and oily skin. Some, specific to dry or sensitive skin, are however formulated with softer surfactants (such as the glycerol ester, from Bioderma, very close to the composition of the skin), or enriched with glycerin or ingredients compensating for this effect.
Micellar water: how to choose it?
Depending on the type of skin, since it now exists for oily, dry, sensitive skin, etc … thanks to the addition of specific active ingredients. There are also jellies, milks and micellar oils, which use micelle technology but in a base other than water.
Micellar water: how to use it?
We apply the soaked cotton for a few seconds on the skin (or the eye), the time for the micelles to act, before removing it. With micellar water, there’s no need to rub! It is the formula which dissolves impurities and carries away the stains, not the action of back and forth with the cotton.
Micellar water is used morning and / or evening. But, as we have seen, this practical solution is not always perfect for the skin. She can a little too much stripping sensitive skin and not thoroughly cleansing combination and oily skin. Not to mention that it does not eliminate the toughest eyeshadows. The ideal? It is used alternately with another make-up remover (oil, milk, foaming gel) and rather on days when you have worn little makeup.
