Damaged hair: how to choose the correct shampoo
Its main mission is to gently wash the scalp and hair. Enriched with repairing agents, it turns out to be a real care for damaged hair fiber.
Repairing shampoo: what it should contain …
One shampooing Repairer should gently wash hair and scalp without drying it out. It must strengthen the hair fiber by nourishing and repairing the damaged cuticle along its entire length. It must be completely removed by rinsing. Finally, it prepares the hair for untangling and facilitates brushing.
Its ingredients :
-Some water : Shampoo is a liquid hygiene product. It is therefore essentially composed of water.
Surfactants: Representing 10% of the formulation, their mission is to clean. Each of them plays a different role.
The “non-ionics” (caprylyl / capryl glucoside or coco glucoside) dissolve sebum in order to isolate the impurities present on the hair.
The “anionics” form foam and remove soiling when rinsing. When they are mild (sodium lauroyl oat amino acids or sodium lauroyl sarcosinates), they preserve the hydrolipidic film and respect the pH (acidity rate).
The “cationics” (quaternium 80, coconut polyamine) act as conditioners (sheathing) and facilitate the disentangling.
A moisturizing active It is often a derivative of betaine (sugar beet), which regulates the hydration of dry or damaged hair, by fixing water in the hair fiber.
A nourishing active It is extracted from oils of vegetable origin (almonds, etc.) containing fatty acids or ceramides. It is a lipid-replenishing and softening agent which coats the hair by closing its open scales (cuticles).
And also…
Pearlescent agents. Either micas or fatty substances (ethylene glycol mono- and distearate), which will give a pearly side to the texture.
Dyes and perfumes. They are used for their pleasant side. The fragrances are low concentration (less than 1%) and hypoallergenic.
Thickeners. Alginates, xanthan gum (a gelling agent), cellulose or acrylic polymers, which make it possible to obtain a creamy texture. The product
does not run, which makes it easier to use.
Conservatives. They act against bacterial proliferation and thus offer perfect safety of use.
Repairing shampoo: we are watching …
Too aggressive surfactants: Some anionics strip the hair fiber by removing the protective hydrolipidic film, which weakens it even more. Anionic surfactants can be present in the formula, provided they are mild enough and in reasonable amounts.
Le sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). It’s best to avoid it in the long run. Indeed, it can be irritating to the scalp or attack
dry and damaged hair.
Le sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). It is well tolerated… in theory. The problem is that it is sometimes combined with other assets which make it aggressive too. So better to abstain!
The specialist’s focus
This type of restructuring shampoo strengthens the dry hair or damaged and can be used every day without problem. It is necessary to lather well by massaging the scalp, then distribute a balm or a repair mask from lengths to ends. Applying a mask for a few minutes, once or twice a week, does not weigh down the hair.
