Whether they are naturally dry or damaged due to external aggressions, coarse and brittle hair needs care that is both nourishing and restructuring.
What a hair mask should contain
– Some water
Present in less quantity than in a conditioner (about 30% of the formula), it serves both as a binder for the ingredients, in order to form the emulsion, as well as as a “vehicle” allowing the active ingredients to penetrate between the scales of the hair.
– Restorative assets
They act inside the cuticle to repair and consolidate in depth the keratin damaged by external aggressions (friction, natural oxidation, coloring …). Ceramides, micronized oils, amino acids and micro-polymers sneak between the scales, in order to rebuild damaged keratin chains.
– Cationic agents
Positively charged fatty alcohols (cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol) and quaternary ammoniums (behentrimonium chloride) are attracted to damaged areas which are negatively charged. They reinforce the action of repairing active ingredients, which then attach themselves firmly to where the hair fiber is exposed.
– Conditioning ingredients
Their mission is to seal the scales to smooth the cuticle and form a protective surface film, in order to protect the hair fiber from moisture and air. Lipophilic, vegetable oils (shea, argan, almond, coconut, olive) or synthetic (liquid paraffin), silicones (dimethicone, amodimethicone) and cationic polymers thus constitute an effective barrier, while ensuring shine and softness to the touch.
And also…
– Antioxidants
Vitamin E or polyphenols form a shield against oxidation linked to ambient humidity and UV rays.
– Perfumes, dyes and nacres bring “sensoriality” to the product and make it more pleasant to the sight, to the touch and to the smell …
– Preservatives which are necessary in order to avoid the proliferation of bacteria and to offer complete safety to the consumer.
To monitor…
– Silicones
If they are not dangerous, they are present in high quantities in the care for sensitized hair, in order to lubricate the fiber well and re-stick the scales. In the long term, they can suffocate the hair fiber. Hence the importance of choosing the right product.
– Allergenic components According to current European legislation, 26 fragrance chemicals considered to be allergens must appear from a certain threshold (0.01%) in the list of ingredients on the product label (Coumarin, Geraniol, benzyl alcohol …).
What to ask of a hair mask
– To distribute themselves evenly from lengths to ends.
– To penetrate quickly in order to act in a few minutes.
– To nourish and heal the hair fiber by restoring the areas where the keratin has been altered.
– To disentangle the hair by smoothing the scales, then to deposit a protective film of surface.
– To be easily removed by rinsing without weighing down the hair, which must remain supple, shiny and silky.
